6.28.2010

Regardez: Viktor&Rolf Spring 2011


A keyboard and microphone in the small salon was sufficient warning that a performance was afoot, and without fanfare, British pop singer La Roux entered stage right to begin the show – neatly groomed into a Viktor & Rolf tuxedo and patent dress shoes.Opening with her track “Colourless colour”, the show began in a restrained palette of beige sportswear – accented in pops of chocolate, aqua and cobalt on patent leather slip-on shoes. Short sleeve knits and tie-waist track pants were given the V&R treatment, emblazoned with their signature spectacles patch and layered with slim shirting and polos. The pair channeled the holiday wardrobes of post-WWII Hollywood stars, as the taupe and beige palette continued and evolved into a safari story, with checked parkas and blazers woven through with pale teals and navy blues, worn over shorts.

As La Roux changed pace and announced in her shrill, husky tones that she was in fact going “In for the Kill”, the mood changed and moved into a darker suiting story – following the concept of shadows that underlined the collection. Black, grey and navy blazers were cinched at the waist, wrapped and belted, double-breasted with a strong peak lapel or given a shadow detail along suit lapel and pockets. Trousers were either cropped and slim or worn with a full pleat at the waist, tapering slightly to the ankle. The closing look proved perfectly suitable as La Roux launched into her finale of “Bulletproof”, with a belted tuxedo suit’s lapel heavily embellished in black beading.

 I couldn’t help notice a similarity between La Roux and Tilda Swinton. Looks like V&R have a thing for copper-haired milk-pale beauties...Lets not forget Tori Amos.

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