The true strength of Viktor & Rolf’s work lies in their genuine modesty, though they are occasionally known for making grandiose statements, with overwhelming proportions. The essence of their work is high-quality simplicity. Take what you see and try to improve on it, sans any idealistic aims or wild fantasies. This is most apparent in there film "Because were worth it" which takes the viewer in the minds of the duo an show the road to the launch of there fragrance Flowerbomb at their Spring 2005 presentation. Viktor & Rolf aim to keep with the traditions of the low countries, in which idiosyncrasies and uniqueness are only valued when kept at arm’s length, and that a humble attitude is expected. Their success comes not from rejecting these conventions, but because they have developed a sincerity in which they test the boundaries of this sham context, exposing its falsehood. Therefore, the duo felt they needed to put their entire oeuvre into perspective.
‘Dolls’ is the result. It is a blend of creative and artistic power, coupled with the modesty which typifies their work. This collection has now found a home with Studio Job, whom they have had a personal relationship with since the 1990s.
- Erik Schilp, director of Naturalis, the Museum of National History of the Netherlands.
The showcase exhibition DOLLS by Viktor & Rolf will take place from May 18th until July 10th 2010, in the new Studio Job gallery by Job Smeets and Nynke Tynagel in Antwerp, Belgium.
With the success of Balmain over the recent seasons, it only makes sense that Christophe Decarnin would get the itch to consolidate the Balmain look into a Men's collection. The Fall 2010 collection features the most exquisite raw materials, aviator jackets, sweaters, blazers and coats inspired by combat, navy, college and rock styles. Decarnin took inspiration from a myriad of subjects making the collection a true amalgamation of a man's man. When I first heard this news I figured it would look alot like Decarnin himself, or at least the way he looks when he does his bow at the end of the shows. Tattered shirts and military jackets and such but, this is a more refined and refined version of that look. This idea of extremely an tailored jacket with what basically amounts to sweatpants is no matter how articulated, I find fresh and modern. I just wish I had a place to wear those red white and blue leather motorcycle pants with the knee pads. It would literally be impossible to not feel like the biggest bad-ass wearing those or anything else in the collection. It is nice to see that the Balmain boy absorbed minor a dose of elegance and a luxury style, but the Balmain girl likes a bad boy let's be honest.
TFN: Where are you from and how did you end up in Charleston?
Cainnon: Well I was born in Virginia Beach and my father was in the Navy so I traveled around a lot mostly in the South. I am from Jacksonville and that’s were I grew up most of my life. I ended up in Charleston because I was on tour with a band a we were doing a tour around the South. I had worked for Urban Outfitters for about a week previously and I got fired because I guess they just didn’t like me for some reason!
TFN: As a Sales Associate?
Cainnon: Yes. So when we were touring through Charleston we stopped at Urban. I saw one of the ladies that were in charge of the opening and she hired me on the spot. When the tour wrapped I moved to Charleston and I have been hear for two years now. So I left music all together.
TFN: What inspires you… You’re the Display Artist at Urban Outfitters (Charleston) right?
Cainnon: Yeah I do all the display for Urban Outfitters
TFN: So how much of what we see in the store is you and how much of it is actually what you want it to be? Because, Urban is a huge corporation.
Cainnon: Well the way Urban Outfitters does it is they rarely tell us that something is none negotiable meaning “This has to be in the store” and I would say its 50/50 my ideas and there ideas because everything is open to adaptation. They want each store to have its own personality, which is why each store has its own artist. So they might say that the concept for the men’s department is black flag and sometimes they will give us something just as vague as black flag and we can translate it literally in to putting black flags allover the area or black accents everywhere and uhhh a lot of it is my interpretation of what they ask for. Making the art that they want to see the art that is hip, adapted to your city and your customer and the environment that your in.
TFN: How do you feel about tattoos?
Cainnon: Well I love tattoos, I am obsessed with tattoos I have half of my body planned out and I have from my knee to my armpit started and I am starting my arm next month. I have my entire body planned out I want it to be the Old Testament bible stories.
TFN: Are you serious?
Cainnon: Yeah!!
TFN: Are you one of those people who say they are religious or spiritual?
Cainnon: Umm… I am very religious I don’t consider myself having a certain denomination.
TFN: But do you read the Bible and the Qur'an?
Cainnon: No I don’t read the bible on a regular basis, but umm I would like to be more religious. I want to be an old man and tell my grand children bible stories and point out the pictures on my body. Ha Ha…
TFN: On your old wrinkled body? Ha Ha and there not going to be weirded out by that?
Cainnon: No No they’re going to be into it. Yeah so my arms going to be a dark depiction of Noah’s Ark like all the people drowning and all the animals rushing onto the ark and A more realistic version of the story.
TFN: That makes me think of Hieronymus Bosch his most famous work “The Garden of Earthly Delights” It depicts images of the afterlife, which in some cases can be quite nightmarish.
TFN: So who are some of your favorite designers? Or do you even wear labels like are you that person?
Cainnon: Ummm I don’t really were labels so much but I love Levis. I pretty much won’t wear jeans unless they are Levis. I love basics. I am into cool cottons, clean, a modern subtle shirt. I am not a fan of plaid or even stripes really. I can’t stand wearing graphic t-shirt!
TFN: Why don’t you like graphics, everyone likes graphics!
Cainnon: I feel like I look like a little kid when I am wearing graphics because I’m short. I used to only wear black graphic tees.
TFN: But that’s the rock influence…
Cainnon: Yeah that is definitely the rock influence and as a result I only wear black, grey and white and blue jeans.
TFN: But no designers, there are several designers that do black like Rick Owens and Helmut Lang.
Cainnon: But I do like Zara it’s the European cut.
TFN: That European fit is something else, it’s the reason I don’t own anything from H&M. What about the idea of trendy clothes is that something that ever appealed to you?
Cainnon: I have never looked in a magazine and said “I’m going to start dressing like that.”
I have always dressed out of necessity. I don’t really like the idea of H&M and these stores where they come out whit what ever is trendy and they make it as fast as they can. To me it is throwaway clothing because it lacks the quality of for instance my Levis. I wear them everyday and they never go out of style although the cuts change-
TFN: You know what you like and what works.
Cainnon: Yeah, I never wear old denim “out” I have to wear fresh dark denim. I probably by a new pair of jeans every other month.
TFN: That has to be the easiest way look polished. I can’t tell you how many times I have gotten complements on the jeans I was wearing not because it was really fancy but because the had a fresh quality.
Cainnon: Like even if you just get a shirt that still has the creases in it from being folded at the store a certain way its just something crisp about that. RVAFIXED! SOUL GLO from Mike Schmitt on Vimeo.
TFN: You’re kind of an avid cyclist but I feel like when I use that term you get an image of Lance Armstrong or some one with a 6500-dollar bike. But your collection of bikes must be worth quite a bit I would say?
Cainnon: Sure I might have a 1500-dollar bike ha ha.
TFN: What about biking appeals to you? Or being a hipster biker?
Cainnon: Well I would definitely not like to call myself any type of hipster-
TFN: Because then your suddenly not hip.
Cainnon: -Exactly-I had never even heard the term “ hipster” until I came to Charleston but that’s another story. I am an advocate of bicycling, I like the idea of being totally self-sufficient and relent on myself. Being rid of modern conveniences of a car. I guess the price in the long term is appealing. I am going to use it everyday and they allow to become healthier and as a result live longer. I have had really bad luck with cars.
TFN: Well there is something very liberating about riding a bike. Do you ride “with brakes” or “no brakes” ?
Cainnon: I ride “no brakes”-
TFN: Isn’t that quite dangerous.
Cainnon: Its dangerous for an inexperienced rider, I would certainly recommend newcomers to try brakes out first. I actually found my first fixed gear bike so I just learned how to use it without them. If you’re strong enough- it’s just like having a bike with coaster brakes.
TFN: Exactly I learned how to ride mine without brakes and you have a real sense of control. You become one with the bike.
Cainnon: Yeah it sounds so tacky but you do the drive train of the bike becomes apart of your legs and your literally moving in sync with the bike. When you get tired and slow down you feel that in your stride. It’s a pretty crazy feeling, riding fixed geared is not like riding a regular bicycle because you do feel at one and free like you sailing almost.
TFN: Well because you’re a biker do you feel like you’re apart of that culture of skateboarding and Vans and such.
Cainnon: I would not say that I am apart of that local scene. I don’t really hangout with them, not that I have anything against them, I definitely fall in to the categories of wearing Vans and having a sweet color scheme bike.
TFN: But its something interesting about that, you don’t understand certain things until you do it. With the bike riding, why do they all wear skinny jeans? If you wear boot-cut jeans then the pant legs are going to get caught in the gears-
Cainnon: I fall in to that categories of dressing out of necessity.
TFN: Do you allow biking ever dictate the way you dress? Or because it’s Wednesday and you’re walking to work you’re going to wear boot-cut jeans?
Cainnon: I actually had to get new pedals just so I could wear boots during the winter. I had to get new pedal straps that would fit my boots because my boots make me like an inch taller. I never walk to work! HaHaHaHa.
TFN: So what kind of music do you listen to or like what did you listen to in High School?
Cainnon: Well when I was in high school I listen to a lot of hardcore metal music, I think I did that just because I was so angry and violent. But now all I listen to is like seventies R&B and Soul, and I think its because like I… I can relate to that music like whenever they talk about “Ain’t no other like the one I got.” Like I can say “Yeah” or “I know what you mean” and “I can relate to that.”
TFN: Yeah because you “Got” one
Cainnon: Yeah I Finally “Got” one.
TFN: I know its weird that kind of music only speaks to people in love. But then it speaks to me somehow because I like listening to that kind of music ha ha.
Cainnon: Well maybe it could be something you feel or something you want to feel.
TFN: Yeah, that’s it.
Cainnon: I was actually having this discussion today where we were talking about how my best friend is always going for girls that are identical to him and it took me like this long to realize that I don’t want somebody who’s like me. I want somebody who’s totally different than me…and all my character flaws are like the best things about her you know.
TFN: Yeah, that’s how it has to work you want someone who is going to bring out the best in you.
Cainnon: I am like quick to judge and very impulsive and she wants to examine the situation and weigh out the pros and cons… and uhhh I think that’s kind of working out.
TFN: How do you feel about Luxury items?
Cainnon: They kind of weird me out…just this last weekend my girlfriend was showing me some things her grandmother had passed down to her. It was a sugar dish and a set of salt and peppershakers made by Tiffany& Co. She has been wanting the classic place settings and I have been looking at these different rings. Seeing how much that little piece of metal is and then seeing this big ol’ sugar dish and saltshakers that are totally ornate it makes me wonder what kind of salt or pepper to fill that with.
TFN: I mean there really is only one kind of salt and pepper and that is the refreshing thing about it.
Cainnon: I feel like I would have to buy Moroccan pepper and Kosher sea salt.
TFN: Or go to the salt flat yourself and scrape the salt into the shaker.
Cainnon: Yeah. I am hardcore like that I would totally go to that length just to say that I went all the way. I feel like if your going to do something like that you should go all out.
TFN: Do you get to sit down and read a good book?
Cainnon: I never get to finish a book but I can however get into short stories.
TFN: What’s your favorite short story?
Cainnon: This one called “The Tower” by Steven Millhauser it’s apart of the McSweeny’s 25th volume, and it’s about this tower that this town has been building for so long that they are trying to get to heaven. They have been building it so long that they don’t remember what the bottom of the tower is like, or what they are even looking for at the top. It transcends generations-
TFN: So they are living in the tower as they are building higher-
Cainnon: Yeah, Some people travel up the tower and some travel down the tower but it takes several generations to make the trip in either direction. Its just so big, I think it's trying to say that heaven is just that far away that it takes a lifetime to achieve or not achieve a goal.
TFN: So do you like symbolism?
Cainnon: Yeah, I like it if its no too ridiculously deep. It should be something you could grasp and someone does not have to explain the symbolism.
TFN: There is something a bit pretentious about that sort of thing. Minimalist and Contemporary Art in general is too intimidating to people for that same reason. Some just can’t wrap their brains around something that you can’t obviously see as being beautiful.
Cainnon: Back in Florida on the art show circuit and they would have 100 artist in a club with music an everyone would have their own area to display there art. When you’re in the exhibition space everyone approaches you to ask you to interpret your work and I never wanted to. I have my reasons for taking the photograph but I wanted the viewer to find their own reason.
TFN: Like art should be personal in the sense that you have your reasons for making it, but not in the sense that people should like it for your reason. No one has the same viewpoint.
TFN: If for example you did an opening in New York and one in Tennessee.
Cainnon: MmmHa ha ha ahhh
TFN: The kind of people that are going to see these photographs are so different and their references will be different. I almost feel like the person in Tennessee would get more from it because their view would more narrow.
Cainnon: Well I have family from Tennessee and I can speak from experience when saying, their view is very narrow when it comes to art!!
TFN: Is there any person in your family that influenced your personal style?
Cainnon: Well I think my Grandmother, she is a country wife.
TFN: Did she ever make any clothes for you to wear as a kid?
Cainnon: No, but she would take my siblings and I to Goodwill on Saturdays to let us pick out anything we wanted because it was a dollar for a garbage full of clothes. I would walk out of there wearing the craziest clothes. She just let me wear what ever I wanted. That was when I fell in love with Converse. There was always a pair of red Chucks at Goodwill for some reason. I remember going to school and now I that they were making fun of me but back then I thought everybody thought I was really cool. I would wear red Chuck Taylor’s and bicycle shorts. That was back in Tennessee and that state has a strange style in of itself.
TFN: What is the typical Tennessean uniform?
Cainnon: Well specifically in East Tennessee MMA (Mixed Martial Arts) style clothes are big.
TFN: MmmHa ha ha ahhh, so Tapout…
Cainnon: Yeah and bold front graphic tees or Ed Hardy shirts with the metallic graphics, Affliction. Crazy embroidered True Religion jeans but, its never really True Religion its something that they sell at Ross!!
TFN: Oh NOOOOOO!!
Cainnon: Not to hate on people from Tennessee but, just like my cousins and stuff they come up to me and their like “man what are wearing?” and I am like “man what are you wearing?”.
TFN: Where would they have gotten that? OH YEAH perhaps John Gosselin guy from TLC or whatever they watch on TV.
Cainnon: It’s crazy how whatever is available to you has on your style. I don’t know that if they had options would they use them.
Takashi Murakami is going back to the drawing board for the Spring 2010 Cosmic Blossom Collection.Takashi Murakami's vision has found a new canvas with a bright, block colour background where Louis Vuitton's iconic Monogram flowers jostle playfully with smiling flower faces, a recurrent theme in Murakami's work, which famously fuses manga graphics with traditional Japanese pictorial motifs. The collection comes in three shades, and features leather goods, ready-to-wear and of course accessories. Silkscreened vinyl canvas, and a convenient holdall in two sizes, joined by the iconic Pochette, emblazoned with a heritage Louis Vuitton signature these bags are perfect for chilling poolside. The Cosmic Blossom motif will also makes an appearance on T-shirts and scarves, bandanas, bikinis and shoes lighting up summer days with irresistible candy colours. The limited-edition Cosmic Blossom collection is available in Louis Vuitton stores from 15th April 2010.
It is amazing how some people are so bound by the world that we live in. That seems like a broad statement but if you give it some thought it’s not. To be uninhibited in the sense that you don’t give a shit what people think or whisper when you pass is hard to achieve. So in the video as she removes her layers she is one-step closer to her free self. Sometimes you even have to die in order to be freed of the things that weigh you down.
From the record store and onto my iPod Erykah Badu’s New Amerykah Part Two: Return of the Ankh has been in playing on repeat none stop. I can’t get enough the melodic melodies and sounds reminiscent of her debut album (Baduizm) but rendered in the eyes of a love struck, lovesick and love hung-over being. The first installment of New Amerykah was an ecocentric concept album riddled with paranoid political undertones set to the tune of ominous beats perhaps even sinister. Politics aside what could be more sinister, Oh Yeah,LOVE! This time around love is proving to be even more foreboding in tracks like Love-“Maybe baby I’m about to go insane… just tell me you love me, come on feel me, I like it.” Badu’s viewpoint is so fresh, honest, and pure and this display of vulnerability I found endearing. I feel like she could have titled the album Songs about being in and out of Love for those in and out of Love. Badu presents clever insight in “You Loving Me” she simplifies what bad relationships can be reduced to in four actions. This album is Neo-soul at its best. The amalgam of psychedelic beats and smooth vocals lull you away. I feel as though it is just unfair to compare Part two to its predecessor but you can’t have one without the other right?
Top Picks:
Agitation- sounds like Rufus featuring Chaka Khan
Umm Hmm- “Take some time to let your feelings show…You can’t hide.”
Fall in Love- “See you don’t wanna fall in love with me… its gonna be some slow singing and flower bringing.”
Last night while shopping online at Opening Ceremony I found something really awesome. Do you remember Rodarte's Spring 2007 Collection, well that was the first collection where they showed sweaters that looked as if they were knit by spiders. The cobwebby knits came in cardigans and long tunic dresses.
The following season Fall 2008 The duo showed the same kints but this time that were in the form of leggings. When I first saw these years ago I simply fell in love with them. Rodarte was once one of those brands that was literally impossible to get your hands on. After there wildly successful pop up shop at Colette in Paris ,Opening Ceremony now carries Rodarte as well as some the exclusive pieces that debuted in the Paris shop. This is the premier collection for men each of the knits are handmade and presents one of a kind qualities. Its almost like if Bill Cosby was buried in one of his famous sweaters then dug up decades later this is what the sweater would look like.
And here is a clip of Andrew from Bravo's Kell on Earth showing a bit of what is in his closet.
Ok so in Febuary of 2008 Erykah Badu gave us her politically charged New Amerykah Part One (4th World War). The sequal album was slated to come out in August after Part one. Badu recently gave birth to her third child and with that she is finally ready the give us this long awaited album, New Amerykah Part Two (Return of the Ankh). Badu said this about the new album:
I called it 'Part II: The Return of the Ankh' because this album is the sister of the left side of my brain -- it is the right side.'Part I was the left side of my thoughts -- it was more socially political and my thought process was more analytical. This time there wasn't anything to be concerned with -- the album is more emotional and flowy and talks about feelings. It reminds of the days of 'Baduizm' -- this is just about beats and rhymes in a cipher.
—Erykah Badu
So with that said I will be first in line at the record store come Tuesday when this jewel is dropped.
In Season Three of Bravo’s hit reality television competition Project Runway the world met Mychael Knight. Where he won three design challenges and was referred to as the fan favorite by more than 10 million viewers. Lover of beauty, Mychael Knight showed his first full collection since his Debut at Bryant Park during New York Fashion Week. Being that Charleston Fashion Week is quickly becoming the premiere fashion event in the southeast it only made since that he shows here. On Wednesday evening monsieur Knight did just that, he showed up and showed out. As the lights fade in from black the DJ dropped the freshest beat then flipped it as model Katie Kern, a true force of nature, strutted down the catwalk to the tune of Rihanna’s “Hard”. I was on a fashion high sitting in the front row, mere inches away from this army of black and white clad women. Rihanna proclaimed “They can say whatever, I’ma do whatever” and this was the idea behind collection titled Carte Blanche. I spoke with Mychael who explained, "Carte Blanche was about me doing me. I had no concerns with trends, fads, or anything else. I wanted to "visual" vocalize the new aesthetic of the Mychael Knight brand.” I can tell you right now that he DELIVERED this. The monochromatic looks made you really study the texture, construction and silhouette of the clothes. Knight took the Balmain shoulder (the exaggerated shoulder) to new heights with the third exit and from that point showed five other shapes. Ribbons of black duchess satin was used to create sculptural bands that swirled around the hips of one model and the torso of another to the leave the viewer spellbound. I was so in awe of the fit of a few of the looks. Opaque leggings and bodysuits with sheer stripes up the sides. If Amber Rose went on an intergalactic holiday these are the clothes she would wear. These clothes were hard, soft, minimal, opulent, shiny, matte, masculine, feminine, long, short, tight, loose, sheer, opaque, and black and white.
Now as far as fresh techniques, fabric studs stole the show. I have seen studs but never made of fabric not to mention white croc. I wonder if Mychael has any plans to do a men’s wear line, I think Amber would get lonely being the only well dress one on her journey in deep space.
This collection also makes me think of the MAD MAX movies especially the one with Tina Turner. And the David Lynch sci-fi film Dune with Sting. 80's sci-fi films had the greatest costumes they literally took you to another world.
Ohhhhh and lets not forget Tupac in the video for California Love.
Mychael Knight Interview
tfn: What do you see as being the future of fashion with Couture Houses closing and other labels growing more popular each season what are your thoughts?
Knight: I think couture house will return to their roots & listen to their core clients/customers.
tfn: If you could assume role as creative director at any Luxury Brand, which would that, be and why?
Knight: Claude Montana. It was ALWAYS about a woman's body & how SHE wears the clothes, not how the clothes wear her.
tfn: How do you feel about Blogs and Bloggers? Any favorites?
Knight: I like bloggers who are positive & informative. I hate the ones who aren't. Fashion bloggers are usually the best. Blogging about fashion is about truth.... either you have style or you don't.
tfn: Given the popularity of technology and the importance of Blogs (in my opinion), do you believe that Fashion Week should become more public for those interested in attending or stay a industry only event?
Knight: It should be about fashion. Whoever has the passion to partake should do so.
tfn: I am curious was the black on black houndstooth was this the screen-printed fabric that you happened upon in that random fabric store in Georgia?
Knight: The fabric is wool, not screen-printed. It was given to me. I thought it was beautiful, so I created beauty.
tfn: I found the looks in your fall collection to be quite gestural and with the collection titled Carte Blanche was this answer to the question about return to glamour? In Paris this Fall season we heard lots of talk about the new "Power Dressing" I love how Dries Van Noten sent girls out in evening gowns and sweatshirts, you did power dressing in a more overtly sexy way. ???
Knight: "Carte Blanche" was about me doing me. I had no concerns with trends, fads, or anything else. I wanted to "visual" vocalize the new aesthetic of the Mychael Knight brand.
I know your wondering where my front row photos are but check this out I shot the entire show with my Lomography fisheye camera so when I get those developed I will post them!!!
Walking near King Street I happened upon this young fellow. At a glance from 30ft away he seemed to be wearing the uniform of any gentleman of leisure, crisp white oxford shirt, straight legged jeans and a bow tie.On closer inspection I found that his oxford, was a pale camel seersucker and that bow tie, was printed with a delicate filigreed floral. This mixture of traditionally masculine and feminine elements instantly give a modern feel to a look that otherwise could be quite boring. My current obcession is Clarks Desert Boots in every variation, I love the ease that they instantly bring to any look. I remember back when I was in high school if you got a fresh pair of Jordans it was imperative not to take the tags off. So if you take a look you will notice that on his left boot the tag has not been removed. Its a very small gesture but he is subtly letting us know that these are super fresh,like straight out of the box and on my feet fresh. I really enjoy seeing a slightly hip hop or shall I say relaxed take on traditional southern dress.
Oh and speaking of oxford shirts, I cant wait to see what the CFW Emerging Designer Finalist have come up with for the Finale.This challenge is an homage to the late Alexander Mcqueen. The finalist are Barbara Beach, Larika Page, and Jamie Lin Snider. Goodluck ladies and I will see you on the runway.
tres frais is a visual archive of the things that inspire me as a designer.I am constantly amazed by the world around me an the creative people that I met day after day. So I invite you to discover the coolest and freshest in design, culture and art.
Graduate of the Savannah College of Art and Design
B.F.A. in Interior Design minor in Architecture
