Regardez: CFW Emerging Designer Competition

Tuesday night was the first night of Charleston Fashion Week 2010 and I was churning with excitement. As I sat in my reserved second row seat directly behind the editor of Charleston Scene, I read the notes on the emerging designers that would be showing their collections. Earlier that day I was chatting with one of my friends and we were talking about "What is fashion in Charleston". He had mentioned that it seems as if for some "Fashion is ripped jean, paired with weird high- top sneakers."  This was still a pungent thought that lingered in my mind as I watched the mob of seat-less attendees vying for a glimpse of the show that was already in progress. I definitely underestimated the talent of some of the emerging designers. I was not wowed by any one collection as a whole but perhaps by the ideas and techniques that were presented. I love the use of materials in Julia Faye Davidson’s collection. Davidson executed linen trench coats with leather details that seemed to capture the Native American spirit. This was an interesting paradox; it took all of my energy not to rip the jacket off the model as he made his exit. Linen is on of those materials that feel so comfortable against bare skin especially during the Summer.

One of the stand out collections was Larika Page. I really enjoyed her take on 1950’s glamour. It was different from the serious clothes that we saw at Vuitton, but they certainly were just as well constructed. She understands how to make women exclaim with desire as I could overhear several women from the row behind me whisper “Oh yeah, I would totally were that!!” I got a chance to speak with Larika on Wednesday in between shows. I asked her about the future of fashion and how she is preparing for it? She quickly replied with “Up!, Fashion must go up!” and then she explained that “ in times like these we have  to take what we already have and mix it so it becomes new.” which most  people would agree with. Page who likes to mix high and low in her own wardrobe, delivered a collection that was chock full of separates. The Page collection was like a Technicolor dream, electric- blues, punchy pinks, topped off with frothy layers of pink tulle.  I am sure that come Saturday Page will be the last one standing, although the Barbara Beach children’s line was adorable.

Regardez: Comment on Sartorialist

Earlier today I checked Scott's blog and he posed a question about a possible contest. I immediatley noticed it on Dashboard and posted a comment/question, four minutes later he relpied!!!! I really did forget that he does do his own blogging. Scott I hope that you will follow me and visit tres frais often.
Also while waiting to interview Mychael Knight from Project Runway in the Charleston Fashion Week press lounge I met Ed Kavishe, a photographer for Fashion Wire Press. He shared his thoughts on blogs,bloggers and,his favorite shows of the past season.He said, "That collection looked like fall in L.A" in referance to the Stella McCartney collection. He also said, "The space almost overshadowed the clothes" high baroque plus strict minimalism equals juxtaposition. We continued to gush about our favorite collections, presentations and designers. Viktor&Rolf and Chanel dominated the conversation by the end of our chat his intern whos laptop he commandeered was converted into a fashion lover.

Charleston Fashion Week is about to begin!!!!

Regardez: Louis Vuitton Hiver 2010

Last seasons 16 year old Vuitton girl turned 36 over the course of mere months. Marc Jacobs offered the definitive word on the last day of Paris Fashion week. To the tune of 1950’s cinematic music Marc returned to realism back the bosom and hips. The presentation was an exuberant celebration of woman. A few, shall I say familiar faces slinked around the jardin fountain, in the seasons square-toed, block-heeled pumps trimmed with flat bows. Luxury was found in the details, the shoes, the bags, the gloves and the coats, Oh the coats took me to a realm inhabited by Bridget Bardot and Hitchcock sirens. Trimmings exemplified the Vuitton knack for classy detail, as in fur buttons and collars and glittery heels. This Louis Vuitton show provided a charming backdrop to display the bags. The Speedy designed in the 1930’s was reinterpreted in fox and in something that resembled those lace embroidered bags form the Spring 2007 Collection. Between me and you I would marry this Vuitton woman, sorry Balmain girl.

Regardez: Minimalism is maximalism at least in Paris

Apparently everybody got the memo about minimalism. Stella McCartney showed one notched blazers and coats over slim trousers all in grey which was made fresh with the seasons kitten heals. I loved Natasha Poly's look an oversized camel cardigan, thats it. That collection exuded a casual sort of glamour. The  opulent baroque interior of The Paris Opera House was literally overshadowed by the ethereal trains on a few of the looks.

Theatrics aside, Viktor&Rolf's presentation on Saturday was simply spellbounding. This idea that an entire look could be changed with nothing more than a few drawstrings and zippers was genius. It was a great progression given the concept for their last show. In times like these consumers want more bang for there bucks. It also seemed to be a nod to there Fall 1999/2000 Hiver Russian Doll as well as the Black Hole collection. Volume that is being restricted to the body by simple elements. It is all about an idea, a concept this time around the duo showed us that tranformation can be beautiful.

Regardez click here.

Tavi's thoughts about fashion blogging.

But I don't think anyone is saying blogs are the equivalent to magazines, or inexperienced bloggers like myself are the equivalent to journalists, anyway. Still, there is nothing wrong with having a range of perspectives. I think fashion is important to discuss.

Which brings me to this recent Isabel Marant quotation:

“For me, fashion shows are not for the public, they are trade shows for the press. It’s time for the press to understand the collection and then spread the information. That’s more interesting than just the image. Everyone wants to be first. It’s too too much. There should be privacy and mystery. There is no excitement about anything anymore as everything is available immediately and all the time – you don’t have to wait for anything. I don’t like the idea of being flooded with image and information. I don’t belong to the generation of spending time on the internet. I think it’s too fast and too fake. It’s like going to a museum on the internet – where is the pleasure? It’s sad because everyone is running after everything, but after what? Everything is too quick. There is no room in your heads for all this information. No one retains anything.”

I think that when it comes to fashion shows being online, it's exposure for a brand. I think that a customer deserves to see the show and get to know the world of that label. I like privacy and mystery too, but there's a fine line between that and exclusivity.

From Tavi at style rookie.
Style Rookie

Regardez: Balmain Hiver 2010

 
Dolly Parton as seen through the eyes of William Morris.Women want to be the Balmain girl and men want to be with her.

Reegardez: Marni Fall/Winter 2010

There's no doubt that the Marni sense of color is exceptional—and a big part of the attraction, as it makes for favorite pieces with a long life. This collection had some wacky ideas: big, jazzy seventies upholstery-type patterns smothered all over suits and matching bags; tops with 3-D stand-out peplums over bulky skirts.These looks can certainly be carried off by chic women whose personal style shines through to make them modern and relevant. But would seem quit at home in a museum.

 As a matter of fact this season so far many of the designers have a been looking to themselves for inspiration. Delving within archives and coming out with "the best of" what they do. We saw this at Marc Jacobs in New York and we saw it on this past Sunday at Dolce & Gabbanna. D&G are known for there use of black and white polka dots, leopard print, and Men's tailoring on women.  During there presentation a video of the designers creating the collection and the seamstresses who aided played as a backdrop. It is the re-telling of an old story that seems to catch the attention of the editors these days. We will have to see what Paris will have to offer, Myself and the rest of the fashion industry are waiting to see what will become of the house of Alexander Mcqueen.

Regardez/Ecoutez- Dam-Funk Mirrors

Regardez: Marc Jacobs Fall 2010

 

As dreamy and serene as any Jacobs show in recent memory—and how typical of him to intuit that the world is craving serenity right now—the show played like a nostalgia trip, one so lovely it was quite easy to be seduced. "It's refreshing to see something that isn't trying so hard to be new," Jacobs, subversive as ever, said after the show. "There's so much striving for newness now that newness feels less new."